Osmotheque, The Perfume Museum

The Osmothèque was founded in 1990 by Jean Kerléo and several French perfumers. The idea was to create a house of perfumes. A fragrance museum. Maybe even a perfume shrine. But definitely a place where perfumers and perfume lovers could meet, discuss, rediscover and recreate perfumes that they have loved and maybe even worn. At the moment 2,500 fragrances have found a home in the Osmothèque which is located on the grounds of the ISIPCA in Versailles. 400 of the archived perfumes are so-called long lost ones and pride and joy of those working on the project of adding more and more perfumes to the fragrant library.

So far the Osmothèque has managed to acquire 170 formulas in order to recreate perfumes that can no longer be found anywhere. Recreating a fragrance that ceased to exist decades ago is a difficult and time-consuming process as some ingredients that were readily available many years ago can no longer be easily obtained. But thanks to Jean Kerléo, the former long-term in-house perfumer of Jean Patou, who kept some of the rarest and most expensive perfume oils, the perfumers' tedious task of getting their hands on rare oils is lessened.

Those rare ingredients, along with the perfume collection, are stored safely in the Osnothèque's cellar which is constantly cooled down to a chilly 12 degrees Celsius (53 degrees Fahrenheit). This is very important as sunlight and high and altering temperatures are the biggest enemies of perfumes and would spoil the fragrant juices in no time. In order to protect the perfumes from enemy number 3, oxygen, the Osmothèque uses argon to keep their perfume bottles, vials and other containers carrying fragrances or oils, safe from oxygen.

Argon is known to halt and even prevent the process of degradation of chemicals and has been used to preserve several manufactured items, e.g. pharmaceutical products, for a long time. On the rare occasion that a perfume does spoil, the Osmothèque will try to replace it. But as funds for the day-to-day running of Osmothèque come from the Société des Amis de l'Osmothèque only, it is important to have solid business relationships with perfume houses from all over the world, explains Patricia de Nicolaï, who is the president of the Osmothèque and a well-known and established perfumer herself.

The aim of the Osmothèque is to have as many perfumes as possible. While they do not focus on limited editions, the perfumers and assistants try to acquire classic and modern perfumes and expensive and budget fragrances alike. Therefore they always keep an eye on the market. With the help of many international brands that send fragrant gifts to the perfume museum, the fragrance library grows constantly and the second site has already been set up!

The New York base of the Osmothèque is run by Christophe Laudamiel. He is currently in possession of a small part of the collection which enables him to perform lectures. Besides recreating fragrances professional lectures are a main part of the Osmothèque's perfumers' jobs. The subjects are as multifaceted as perfume itself. They range from broad overviews of the world of perfume to specific requests like the history of British brands, speeches about fragrance families, materials, noses and simply anything that the listeners are interested in. Only one thing is for sure: Once a lecture on a certain subject is booked, the lecturer will be well prepared!

Some excursions are open for the public as well! The Osmothèque in Versailles welcomes those who are interested in perfumery on Wednesdays and Saturdays. As there is a limit on the number of people that can attend a class, it is necessary that your ticket is booked in advance! On the Osmothèque's web site you will find the dates and times when public excursions take place. In order to book please call the telephone number in France.
On a personal note I would like to thank Patricia de Nicolaï and Sophie d'Auber for a pleasant interview and for providing Fragrantica with all the information. Merci!

Images: Osmothèque's web site, Fragrantica from Esxence, Milano 2011 (video & images), jafsegal


Plant Pdysiology

* Copyright © 2010, American Society of Plant Biologists

A copal-8-ol diphosphate synthase from the angiosperm Cistus creticus subsp. creticus is a putative key enzyme for the formation of pharmacologically active, oxygen-containing labdane-type diterpenes

1. Vasiliki Falara1 (vfalara@umich.edu),
2. Eran Pichersky1 (lelx@umich.edu) and
3. Angelos K. Kanellis2,3 (kanellis@pharm.auth.gr) (http://www.pharm.auth.gr/kanellis)

+ Author Affiliations

1 University of Michigan, Ann Arbor;
2 Aristotle University

1. * Corresponding author; email: kanellis@pharm.auth.gr


The resin of Cistus creticus subsp. creticus, a plant native to Crete, is rich in labdane-type diterpenes with significant antimicrobial and cytotoxic activities. The full-length cDNA of a putative diterpene synthase was isolated from a C. creticus trichome cDNA library. The deduced amino acid sequence of this protein is highly similar (59 - 70% identical) to type B diterpene synthases from other angiosperm species that catalyze a protonation-initiated cyclization. The affinity-purified recombinant E. coli expressed protein used geranylgeranyl diphosphate as substrate, and catalyzed the formation of copal-8-ol diphosphate. This diterpene synthase was therefore named CcCLS (for Cistus creticus copal-8-ol diphosphate synthase). Copal-8-ol diphosphate is likely to be an intermediate in the biosynthesis of the oxygen-containing labdane-type diterpenes that are abundant in the resin of this plant. RNA gel blot analysis revealed that CcCLS is preferentially expressed in the trichomes, with higher transcript levels found in glands on young leaves than on fully expanded leaves while CcCLS transcript levels increased after mechanical wounding. Chemical analyses revealed that labdane-type diterpene production followed a similar pattern with higher concentrations in trichomes of young leaves and increased accumulation upon wounding


Diesel Only The Brave Captain America

Diesel continues its tradition of limited editions of the perfume Only the Brave from 2009, which attracted attention with its unique bottle shaped like tight fist. After the original edition, several limited editions were presented: Only The Brave by Bunka 2009 Only The Brave Iron Man 2010 Only The Brave Music Animations 2010 Just like 2010 edition Only The Brave Iron Man, a...
Read full article: Diesel Only The Brave Captain America from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.


Jasmine in Different Cultures

Your scent enchants me Every time I get close to you Oh beloved Jasmine. A time in our lives comes when we fall in love and everything feels beautiful. But this probably is not the first time of our life and love stepped in even before so... Recall the day, when as a child, you saw the rainbow and smelled flowers for the first time. What did you feel? The stars shone ...
Read full article: Jasmine in Different Cultures from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.


Canadian Fragrance Awards 2011 - 28 April 2011, Montreal

Best Niche Launch Men’s or Women’s:
Love and Tears (Surrender) – By Kilian
Best Luxe Launch:
Women’s: Voyage d’Hermès - Hermès
Best Luxe Launch:
Men’s: Zegna Forte – L’Oréal Canada
Best Limited Launch:
Women’s: Balenciaga Paris – Coty Canada Inc.
Best Full Market Launch:
Women’s – Prestige: Acqua di Gioia – Giorgio Armani – L’Oréal Canada
Best Full Market Launch:
Women’s – Mass: Beyoncé Heat – Coty Canada Inc.
Best Full Market Launch:
Men’s: Bleu de Chanel – Chanel
Best Private Label/Direct Sell Launch:
Men’s or Women’s: Iris – Crabtree & Evelyn
Hall of Fame Award:
Women’s: Opium – Yves Saint Laurent – L’Oreal Canada
Hall of Fame Awards:
Men’s: L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme – Beauté Prestige International
Best Print Media Editorial: Best Health:
“The Sweet Smell of Success” by Doris Montanera
Best Web/Broadcast Media Editorial:
Basenotes.net – “Eau Canada!” by Marian Bendeth
2010 Favourite Scent:
Judge’s Choice: Eau Duelle – Diptyque
2010 Consumer Choice:
Women’s: Gucci Guilty – Procter & Gamble Prestige Americas
2010 Consumer Choice:
Men’s: Marc Jacobs BANG – Coty Canada Inc.
Lifetime Achievement Award:
Heather Josey – The Bay

Source: cosmeticsmag.com
Photos - cosmeticsmag, bykilian

The Fragrance Foundation France - Winners of 2011 FiFi Awards in France!

The Fragrance Foundation of France announced 10 winners of 2011 FiFi Awards in France on May 5, 2011. Awards included best male and female fragrances as well as best flacons and publicity campaigns. Seven of the 10 awards had been decided by public voting on the foundation's website from March 7th to 25th.

The Fragrance Foundation is a non-profit educational organization. The FiFi Awards have been held annually in New York City since 1973. This year we will celebrate the 39th FiFi Awards in the United States on May 27, 2011.

The annual European "FiFi" Awards for the best men's and women's fragrances of the year have been held in the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Italy and Spain since 1993.


The Best Feminine Perfume
YSL Belle D’Opium

The Best Masculine Perfume
Bleu de Chanel

The Best Feminine Flacon
Balenciaga Paris

The Best Masculine Flacon
Voyage D’Hermes

The Best Publicity Campaign Feminine
Lancome Tresor in Love

The Best Publicity Campaign Masculine
Biotherm Homme Force

The Best Perfume Distributed Under Its Own Name
L’Occitane en Provence Pivoine

The Specialist’s Prize
Etat Libre D’Orange Like This, Tilda Swinton

The Perfumer’s Prize
Thierry Mugler Womanity

Special Prize of The Fragrance Foundation France Board
Romano Ricci of Juliette Has a Gun


New Fragrance by Le Labo: Santal 33

The notes include cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, sandalwood, papyrus and cedar.

Le Labo has launched Santal 33, a new unisex fragrance based on their popular Santal 26 candle. It is the first addition to the regular collection since 2009′s Oud 27.


Mexx Summer Editions

Mexx Woman Summer
Top notes: kumquat, mango, osmanthus
Heart: violet, lily of the valley, angelica, coriander
Base: patchouli, moss, musk, iris

Mexx Man Summer
Top notes: grapefruit, lemon, exotic fruits
Heart: apples, cinnamon, star anise
Base: cedar, patchouli, moss

Clean Summer Escape and Cotton T-Shirt

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, beach grass
Heart: water lily, peony, honeysuckle, orange blossom
Base: white sand, driftwood, coconut, cotton flower
Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, clean laundry accord
Heart: freesia, cotton flower, rosewood
Base: amber, musk, vetiver


Otto Kern Egoluxe Eau Legere fragrance duo.

Egoluxe Eau Legere Feminin
Top notes: lemon, peach, black currant
Heart: peony, cyclamen, water lily
Base: cedar, crystal moss, musk

Egoluxe Eau Legere Masculin
Top notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, cardamom
Heart: iris, jasmine, orange blossom, guaiac wood
Base: amber, cedar, musk, tonka

Campomarzio70 – First Perfume Gallery in the Heart of Rome.

We would like to inform all passionate fans of perfumery, particularly Italians and those who plan on visiting Rome, that the first perfume gallery was opened in the very heart of Rome. It was not envisaged as an exhibit area, but as a meeting point for perfumers and fans of fragrances—a cultural workshop.

Campomarzio70 is located on the Via Vittoria 52 and offers a selection of perfumes. The gallery is unique since it connects history, innovation, passion, tradition and culture. This sophisticated gallery-store was redesigned by Design for Architecture and various exhibitions and olfactive events will take place here. The new store unites perfumes, perfumers and fans, and perfumes will be promoted here through emotions, memories and as pieces of art.


Kenzo 10:10 am in Sicilia

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, grapefruit
Heart: peony, freesia, fig tree
Base: cedar, vetiver

Oriflame Intense Embrace.

The fragrance for men, Intense Embrace Him Eau de Toilette opens with green apple and cardamom that add a tingling edge to the spicy cinnamon, star anise and nutmeg. The heart adds orange blossom and rose notes deepening into a tonka bean and vanilla base. The fragrance will be available as 75 ml EDT.


Flower by Kenzo Summer 2011

Top notes: mandarin, ginger, lychee
Heart: freesia, violet
Base: white musk

La Perla Divina

Top notes: mandarin, strawberry, champagne
Heart: rose, jasmine, orange blossom
Base: vanilla, ambergris, blonde woods, musk


Earth Hour 2011: It's time to go beyond the hour

At 8:30 PM on Saturday 26th March 2011, lights will switch off around the globe for Earth Hour and people will commit to actions that go beyond the hour.



Betty Barclay Chic

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, black currant
Heart: rose, ylang-ylang, magnolia
Base: sandalwood, heliotrope, vanilla

Elizabeth Taylor

The Violet Eyes of Hollywood!!

Sammy Sweetheart Dangerous

Top notes: mandarin, almond
Heart: jasmine, honeysuckle
Base: vanilla, brown sugar


Roger & Gallet Fleur d`Osmanthus

Top notes: orange bark, mandarin, grapefruit Heart: osmanthus, neroli Base: tonka, benzoin, sandalwood

Perry Ellis Love

Top notes: citruses, white pepper
Heart: rose, water lily, frangipani (plumeria)
Base notes: Madagascar vanilla, sugared musk, plum, patchouli and sensual sandalwood


Avon and Reese Witherspoon Expressions

Live Without
Top notes: bergamot, black currant, lily of the valley
Heart: gardenia, freesia, magnolia, jasmine
Base: amber, musk

Laugh Often
Top notes: citruses, mandarin, white tea
Heart: freesia, rose
Base: musk

Love to the Fullest
Top notes: black cherry
Notes: peony, primrose
Base: amber, cashmere, sandstone

Gosh In The Box for Men, Gosh In The Box for Women.

Gosh In The Box for Men gives us the energy of citruses (mandarin and bergamot), tomato leaves, rose, black currant, sandalwood, patchouli and black pepper.

Gosh In The Box for Women, is announced as a charming, playful and very sophisticated edition. Notes decorating the women's version are floral-fruity. The top notes seduce with mandarin and black currant zest, the heart adds litchi, basmati rice and rose flowers, while base notes feature tender birch tree, amber and musk.

Guess Seductive Wild Summer

Top notes: red berries, pear, lychee
Heart: jasmine, rose, orange blossom
Base: cashmere, vanilla, musk


Kenzo L’Eau par Kenzo Wild and L’Eau par Kenzo Wild Pour Homme.

New fragrances to summer.

L'Eau Par Kenzo Wild
Top notes: mandarin, mint, lilac, cane
Heart: jasmine, amaryllis, lotus, Guinea pepper, peaches
Base: vanilla, musk flower, blue cedar

L'Eau Par Kenzo Pour Homme Wild
Top notes: lemon, ginger, coriander
Heart: mint, cardamom, sage
Base: cedar, white musk

Flowerbomb La Vie en Rose 2011

Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper
Heart: rose, lily of the valley, red fruits, raspberry, candied almonds
Base: amber, patchouli, cashmere
New fragrances to summer.


Death of songwriter Rasoulias

Manolis Rasoylis had origin from Sises Rethimno.
Greek songwriter, singer and journalist Manolis Rasoulis was found dead in his home, at the age of 66, on Sunday by friends, while initial coronary findings indicate that the artist died four days earlier.

Rasoulis was born in Iraklion, Crete in September 1945, and as a child sang in the church choir of the town's patron Saint Minas, before leaving for Athens to study cinematography. He started his artistic career as a singer in the Plaka district in Athens, while at the same time writing for the Left-wing newspaper Dimokratiki Allagi (Democratic Change".

During the military dictatorship he went to London, where he stayed for six years and joined the Trotsky movement, where he first met Vanessa Redgrave with whom he collaborated twice in political performances.

In May 1968 he took part in the students' uprising in Paris and returned to Athens shortly after the Polytechnic students' uprising that paved the way for the collapse of the junta.

He resumed his singing career shortly after his return to Greece, in a collaboration with composer Manos Loizos, but his later collaboration with Nikos Xydakis made his name a household word in Greece. Other collaborations included composers Stavros Kouyoumtzis, Socrates Malamas and Christos Nikolopoulos, who put his lyrics to music.

Rasoulis frequently voiced his opposition to the so-called "musical establishment" and with recording companies, and was often called a "heretic" and "eccentric", and in recent years had withdrawn almost completely from the artistic scene.

His songs were popular in Israel, Turkey and Serbia, and even in far-away Japan.


Debris swirls as a tsunami waves smashes into a road in Sendai, Japan.

Givenchy Le Bouquet Absolu

Top notes: bergamot, neroli, wild strawberries
Heart: jasmine, vanilla orchids, rose
Base: juniper, musk, ambergris

Victoria`s Secret Incredible

The top notes of this floral-fruity composition offer juicy and fragrant white peach combined with pear and lotus accords. The heart introduces floral notes of magnolia, honeysuckle and iris, while the base provides a seductive and sensual finish leaving a fine trail of vanilla, Australian sandalwood, liquid musk and coconut milk.

The assortment of Victoria’s Secret Incredible includes:
Incredible EDP 50 ml
Incredible Body Lotion 200 ml
Incredible Body Mist 250 ml

Source: Victoria's Secret offical site


Parfums de Nicolaï Week-End à Deauville

Top notes: mint, basil, tarragon
Heart: lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang, galbanum, apple, cardamom, helional, calone
Base: leather, cedar, white musk

Dana Savuica Challenge

Challenge, the first fragrance by Dana Savuica, TV star from Romania, arrived on the market on February 26, 2011. Dana is a model and TV host who also started her modeling agency named Etiquette Models. The Etiquette brand become a leading provider of luxury accessories, shoes, bags, clothes and Dana Savuica became a brand name in Romania. She spent her childhood in many exotic places, suc...
Read full article: Dana Savuica Challenge from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.
Top Notes: bergamot, rhubarb and fruity notes
   Middle notes: tuberose, rose
   Base notes: patchouli and sandalwood


To all friends of Matala

In spring 2011 the writer Arn Strohmeyer (www.arnstrohmeyer.de) and the publisher Thomas Balistier (www.kreta-buch.de) will publish a book with photographs from the hippie-time in Matala. The book will be titled:

The Myth of Matala

A book with photographs from the hippie-time in the sixties and seventies
(german and english)

We want to arrange a meeting with former inhabitans of the caves and all friends of Matala on the 11./12. of june 2011 in Matala. We hope many Matala-veterans will come! Contact us!




Givenchy Very Irresistible Tropical Paradise and Pi Neo Tropical Paradise

Givenchy prepared two new limited editions for summer inspired by exotic tropical beaches. Very Irresistible fragrance for women from 2003 and masculine Pi Neo from 2008 are presented in the attractive new variants as Very Irresistible Tropical Paradise and Pi Neo Tropical Paradise. The new fragrances will take you to a place of endless sandy beaches, shady palm trees, hot sun and sea air, exoti...
Read full article: Givenchy Very Irresistible Tropical Paradise and Pi Neo Tropical Paradise from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

Top notes: bergamot, grapefruit
Heart: fig leaf, palm leaf
Base: cedar, driftwood, marine note, clary sage

Top notes: mint, anise
Heart: passion fruit, rose
Base: sandalwood, musk

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