J`Adore L`Or by Dior (I Adore Gold) from the end of October 2010.

For: women 

Designer: Dior 

Olfactive Group: Oriental Floral

Dior J`Adore L`Or

http://www.fragrantica.com

Dior is presenting new J`Adore L`Or, created of rose absolute and jasmine from Grasse. The fragrance arrives on the market end of October as 40ml Essence de Parfum.

The new J’Adore L Or was created by Francois Demachy of high quality ingredients which were the key factor for quality of this fragrance. 'True luxury requires the highest level of ingredients quality and creation' – says Dior. His words were the basis for the new fragrance which will represent the house of Dior perfectly with its golden nuances.

Composition of the new edition includes highest quality materials which leave rich aromas on the skin and make it gentle, silky and soft. Nuance of this golden nectar is more intense and warm, just like real gold. As guarantee of quality, Dior accentuates ingredients used in perfume and which satisfy the highest criteria. The composition encompasses Centifolia rose absolute and Grandiflorum jasmine absolute from Grasse.

Extracts of flowers of J`Adore l`Or originate from "Domaine de Manon", managed by the same family for three generations. This family has been a supplier for Dior for years and they have maintained tradition of high quality till today.

Rose petals and jasmine were hand-picked and their scent leaves an impression of a delicate floral bouquet followed by oriental notes, which give precious charm to the fragrance. The base consists of soft and warm tonka bean absolute and sensual Tahitian vanilla absolute.

Oriental flavor originates from patchouli and drops of amber and labdanum, while leaving an impression of density - as formulated by perfumer Francois Demachy.

The bottle has the same shape as the classic amphora of the house of J `Adore, with the difference in the cap which is decorated with golden threads. Modeled on the Masai necklace (John Galliano's idea), stopper that exudes luxury was created. Face of an advertising campaign is Charlize Theron, the muse of modern gold variation of the perfume, wearing a John Galliano dress. J`Adore L`Or is a new fragrance and it was introduced in 2010.

Fragrance Notes

top notes

jasmine rose

middle notes

Tonka BeanVanille

base notes

labdanum Patchouli amber

Labdanum - goats - Pharaoh

In ancient times, labdanum was collected by combing the beards and thighs of goats and sheep that had grazed on the cistus shrubs. They also used wooden instruments referred to as ergastiri or lambadistrion which was a kind of rake, to which a double row of leathern thongs were fixed instead of teeth. These were used to sweep the shrubs and collect the resin which was later extracted. It was collected by the shepherds and sold to coastal traders. The false beards worn by the pharaohs of ancient Egypt were actually the labdanum soaked hair of these goats.

10.000 years history.

The scent of Aphrodite.

http://www.cyprus-mail.com/

Jennifer Lopez’s Glow fragrance, credited with igniting the mania for celebrity scents, made sales worth $100 million in 2002; Chanel’s legendary No5 is still among the best-sellers in department stores the world over 89 years after it was launched and Francois Coty, known as the first perfume manufacturer, in 1904 recognised that an attractive bottle was essential to a perfume’s success. High points in the history of a multi-billion dollar industry that now sees around 1,000 new aromas produced every year. Yet real fragrance history was made in 2003 when a team of archaeologists discovered a perfume lab in Cyprus dating from 4,000 years ago.

A group of Italian archaeologists led by Dr Maria Rosaria Belgiorno first uncovered the perfume factory site in 1993.....


All article in site....
http://www.cyprus-mail.com...

The scent of Aphrodite
By Eleni Antoniou Published on January 17, 2010

The 17 essential oil ingredients used to recreate the fragrance that is now available include aromatic herbs such as jasmine, marjoram, cypress and pine tree, rose and labdanum, one of the most important elements of the perfume that was also included in the Chypre de Coty perfume series created by Francois Coty in 1917, and named after Cyprus.

Cistus Incanus Creticus

IFRA - Chypre perfume - oakmoss - labdanum fro Cistus Creticus

Extracts from very beautiful article for the laudanum.


http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/

Labdanum: an important material


It is well known to our readers by now that chypre perfumes are dependent on a strict formula that juxtaposes bergamot and oakmoss, interlaying labdanum and other earthy elements such as vetiver or patchouli.
Perfume Shrine has already focused on oakmoss extensively (click for relevant article), so the other important material that needed tackling was labdanum. And so here we are today, trying to examine some of its facets.

.....

Labdanum's odour profile is highly complex. It is balsamlike, with woody, earthy, smoky, and even marshy undertones. Some even desrcibe it as ambergris-like, or leathery and honeylike with hints of plum or oakmoss after a rain. Usually it is referred to as ambery, but it is mostly used to render leather or ambergris notes, the latter especially after its ban on using the real animal-derived material, as there were concerns about the ethical production of it from sperm whales from which it originates (Ambergris is therefore very rare and costly if ethically harvested and is mostly synthesized in the lab. Please read this amber article for more info).

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Myrrh of Bible???????

by
Anthony V. Gaudiano

Myrrh (Strong’s has several words for Myrrh: 3910 - a gum (from its sticky nature) probably ladanum, 4753 - distilling in drops and also as bitter, 4666 - perfumed oil: ointment, 4669 - to tincture with myrrh, i.e. embitter (as a narcotic):-mingle with myrrh.

Myrrh is an aromatic gum resin, generally believed have been obtained from the low-growing thorny shrub or tree known as Commiphora myrrha (Balsamodendron myrrha) or the related variety Commiphora kataf. Both thrive in rocky areas particularly on limestone hills.


The wood and bark of such plants have a strong odor. Although the resin exudes by itself from the stem or the thick and stiff branches of either variety, the flow can be increased by means of incisions.

Initially the clear, white, or yellowish-brown resin is soft and sticky, but upon dripping to the ground to the ground it hardens and turns dark red or black.

It is collected and is marketed as a spice, medicine, or cosmetic (Song of Songs 5; Matt 2:11; Mark 15:23; John 19:39).

In Genesis 37:25 and 43:11 the Hebrew word ‘l4t’ is generally translated as “myrrh.” However, some question whether Commiphora myrrha, now native to Arabia and east Africa, was known in Palestine during the patriarchal period.
A better translation for lot word is considered to be “labdanum,” a gummy resin produced by the small labdanum scrub (Cistus creticus L.), growing abundantly in the rocks and sand in Palestine.


References to myrrh are in Prov. 7:17 - “perfumed my bed with myrrh,[likely as a sprinkled powder]” Song 5:5 - “my hands dripped with myrrh”[perhaps myrrh dissolved in oil or wine], Matt. 2:11 - “gold, frankincense, and myrrh,” Mark 15:23 - “wine mingled with myrrh ...” [indicates the resin is soluble in water and alcohol.

Today : The official opening of the New Acropolis Museum.

Labdanum - Cistus and Ancient Greece.

HERODOTUS (484 BC– 425 BC) THALIA 112.

"Ledanum, which the Arabs call ladanum, is procured in a yet stranger fashion. Found in a most inodorous place, it is the sweetest-scented of all substances. It is gathered from the beards of he-goats, where it is found sticking like gum, having come from the bushes on which they browse. It is used in many sorts of unguents, and is what the Arabs burn chiefly as incense.


Herodotus world:


Doctor:






1.HIPPOCRATES( 460 BC - 370 BC).
Hippocrates of Cos II or Hippokrates of Kos "father of medicine"









2.THEOPHRASTUS ( 371 – c. 287 BC).
His two surviving botanical works, Enquiry into Plants and On the Causes of Plants, were an important influence on medieval science.








3.GAIUS OR CAIUS PLINIUS SECUNDUS, (AD 23 – August 24, AD 79).
Gaius or Caius Plinius Secundus, better known as Pliny the Elder, was an ancient author, naturalist or natural philosopher and naval and military commander of some importance who wrote Naturalis Historia.








4.PEDANIOS DIOSKURIDES. 1o AC









5.CELSUS ( 1nd century ).
Celsus Greek philosopher and opponent of Christianity. He is known to us mainly through the reputation of his literary work, The True Word.








6.GALEN (AD 129 –ca. 200 or 216).
Galen was a prominent ancient Greek physician, whose theories dominated Western medical science for well over a millennium.

Perfume Shrine: Kypre by Lancome: fragrance review & history

Perfume Shrine: Kypre by Lancome: fragrance review & history

Galbanum & Labdanum History of perfumes (part 2)

Galbanum

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Galbanum is an aromatic gum resin, the product of certain Persian plant species, chiefly Ferula gummosa, syn. galbaniflua and Ferula rubricaulis. Galbanum-yielding plants grow plentifully on the slopes of the mountain ranges of northern Iran. It occurs usually in hard or soft, irregular, more or less translucent and shining lumps, or occasionally in separate tears, of a light-brown, yellowish or greenish-yellow colour, and has a disagreeable, bitter taste, a peculiar, somewhat musky odour, and a specific gravity of 1.212. It contains about 8% terpenes; about 65% of a resin which contains sulfur; about 20% gum; and a very small quantity of the colorless crystalline substance umbelliferone.

Galbanum is one of the oldest of drugs. In the Book of Exodus 30:34, it is mentioned as being used in the making of a perfume for the tabernacle. Rashi of the 1100s comments on this passage that galabanum is bitter and was included in the incense as a reminder of deliberate and unrepentant sinners.

It is occasionally used in the making of modern perfume, and is the ingredient which gives the distinctive smell to the fragrance "Must" by Cartier. Hippocrates employed it in medicine, and Pliny (Nat. Hist. xxiv. 13) ascribes to it extraordinary curative powers, concluding his account of it with the assertion that "the very touch of it mixed with oil of spondylium is sufficient to kill a serpent." The drug is occasionally given in modern medicine, in doses of from five to fifteen grains. It has the actions common to substances containing a resin and a volatile oil. Its use in medicine is, however, obsolete.

Amber Jayanti, in her book Living the Qabalistic Tarot says that Galbanum oil is linked with the Tarot card called The Fool. Also called Fiery Intelligence, the Fool represents the divine spark that animates the universe. According to Richard Alan Miller (The Magical and Ritual Use of Perfumes), galbanum oil is steam-distilled to yield a green, fruity-floral odor reminiscent of green apples. The Fool card is also linked with the herb ginseng.


This article incorporates text from the Encyclopædia Britannica, Eleventh Edition, a publication now in the public domain.




Above, dried Galbanum from the Swedish Museum of Natural History - Linnean Garden

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Galbanun & Labdanum

These are perfume materials that have been used since ancient times and often for medicinal and spiritual purposes. Both are listed in the Bible as components of the incense to be burned before the tabernacle. Both used in modern perfumes of the Chypre type, adding a deep balsamic and woody lingering quality. I happen to have some Labdanum essential oil so I tried a drop on my skin, it is intensely woody, smokey, sweet and resinous and seems to have a strongly calming effect. Galbanum and Labdanum are used as a remedy to counter anxiety, not surprisingly. If perfume is for the purpose of making the wearer feel good, these ancient perfume materials are the ones that truly fulfill that function. The old method of gathering labdanum is to herd goats among the bushes, their woolly coats gathering the resinous material. Labdanum is said to have a deep effect on the subconscious, calling forth memories and moods. Galbanum has a very similar but with a more "green" scent profile; it was highly valued by the ancient Eygptians who steeped ceremonial accessories into it.






Ferula gummosa and Cistus Creticus in the same place in my farm.



1.Ferula gummosa, from which galbanum comes.
2.Cistus Creticus, from which labdanum comes

Ayala Sender Releases Hanami Perfume Today

by Legerdenez


It all started with a poem: In March 2008, perfumer Ayala Sender was invited along with 14 other leading perfumers in the niche perfume industry to interpret a haiku-like poem by Ezra Pound, “In A Station of the Metro” for a project titled “Perfume In A Poem” Memory & Desire blog. One year later, Ayala Moriel releases the perfume at Blunda Aromatics in Los Angeles, in the 2nd of their 8-part Natural Botanical Perfume Exhibitions. “As I was reading the poem, I envisioned a perfume that is subtle and urbane: flowers and dusty dirt”, says Ayala. She drew on her olfactory experiences in the metro stations in New York and Montreal, and the cherry blossom boulevard in Burrard SkyTrain station, which is the heart of the Cherry Blossom Festival (Hanami) in Vancouver.

“The challenge was to create the feel of concrete, asphalt and metallic surroundings using natural aromatics only”, says Ms. Sender, who used Haitian vetiver, cabreuva oil, French Cassie and Oleander to create the feel of metal, wet wood and concrete. These serve as a backdrop for the cheerful lightweight floral notes of sakura, mimosa and magnolia, creating a perfume that is ever changing, ranging from “sweet floral notes in the sunshine to cool dampness of concrete and steel."

I wish I could have been there for the launch today. To learn more about Hanami click here.

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