Perfume families.

Floral: These are flower based notes. They are associated with naturalness and smoothness. This is the largest and most popular category which is created mainly from flower based notes, such as jasmine, rose, gardenia, orange blossom and carnation. They are often blended together in order to create a distinctive floral bouquet.

Fougere: Fougere is French word for “Fern”. Fougere fragrances use the fern or forest-like note of oakmoss which is combined with other herbal notes like lavender, and coumarin. Fougere is very popular structure for men’s fragrances.

Chypre: Chypre represents a perfume structure where fresh notes, (mainly Citrus) are combined with the rich woody-animalic characters of Patchouli and Labdanum and Oakmoss. The fresh notes of modern Chypres may be modified or even completely replaced with green or fruity combinations. Many men’s colognes are usually based on the basic Chypre structure. Chypres frequently display a leather character.

Leather: Pungent animal smokiness characteristic of the ingredients used in the tanning process of leathers. Achieved in perfumery with castoreum, labdanum, phenols, and quinolenes.

Woody: An odour which is linked to the aroma of freshly cut dry wood such as Cedarwood Oil, Virginian, Sandalwood or displaying these notes such as of vetiver or Patchouli.

Oriental: Fragrance family or style based on balsamic notes with vanilla, oakmoss and animal notes. Examples are Shalimar, Obsession, Opium, Samsara. Now frequently also applied more generally to perfumes that are heavy, full bodied and tenacious.

Citrus: They are derived from citrus fruits such as Pomello, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Orange, Lemon. This fragrance type projects a sharp, tangy aura. They are naturally refreshing and uplifting. Citrus blends are among the oldest known scents, first worn by men and now popular with women as well.

Chypre perfume - oakmoss - labdanum fro Cistus Creticus part 2

Glossary by http://theperfumedcourt.com

C

Chypre - Chypre is an ancient perfume, originally combining fresh citrus notes with oakmoss and some animalic notes. The Romans used to produce a perfume in Cyprus, the Greek Island; Cyprus in French is Chypre. It contained storax, labdanum and calamus and smelled heavy and Oriental. It continued to be manufactured throughout the Middle Ages in Italy and then in France, with oakmoss at its base. About 100 years ago, Coty made his famous Chypre fragrance in 1917 that was based on the contrast of a citrusy top note and the pungent, earthy oakmoss base note. The main ingredients of a Chypre are oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum or clary sage, with the addition of floral middle notes such as rose-jasmine and a bright sweet top note of bergamot or lemon. In order to qualify as a classic chypre, the basic cord must always be bergamot-oakmoss-labdanum. Today, however, many “modern” chypres do not share this accord and are classed as “mossy woods” in the Michael Edwards system. Pronounced: sheep-ra.

L

Labdanum - An aromatic gum that originates from the rockrose bush. The sweet woody odor is said to mimic ambergris and can also be used to impart a leather note.

O

Oakmoss - Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees. In French it is mousse de chene.

Only Cistus Creticus sprouts in the island of Cyprus.

Genealogy of Perfumes - Chypre perfume

http://bourtononthewater.info/genealogy.html

Perfumes - just like food, music or wine - can be classified into groups, and this gives you a framework which is very useful when choosing a perfume for yourself or for others. Without it, describing fragrances is difficult. Imagine going into a shop to buy some music, and not knowing the difference between Pop, Classical and Jazz - you would have quite a problem!

Chypre. Chypre

Chypre. Chypre is the French for Cyprus and comes from when the Crusader's invaded in the 13th century and brought back a material called labdanum from the sticky buds of the Cistus bush. It has a heavy, sweet, balsamic type of odour but when blended with other base notes like sandalwood, patchouli and oakmoss, made a very popular base. You need to allow at least 10-15 minutes after application to appreciate the similarity between perfumes in this group, since "Chypre" describes the "main-theme" or "base" of the perfume which you will not appreciate until the solvent and top notes have had time to evaporate.

Chypre perfumes tend to be fairly heavy fragrances and therefore last a reasonable time on the skin. Sometimes described as evening type perfumes, or "sophisticated". Our fragrances in this group are Cymbelline for the ladies and Amber for men.

Tarantella

Tarantella
Eau de Parfum
Site:http://www.tommisooni.com

Our aim: to create an elegant perfume of beauty, a modern classic.

Paris was the inspiration for our first perfume but a fragrant garden in Avignon was the revelation. Encircled by a ring of bay laurel trees and brimming with exotic flora native to the Island of Sicily, this beautiful walled garden held the key to Tarantella eau de parfum.

Inspired by the Tommi Sooni vision our “nose” blended and refined in the classic French tradition for over eighteen months until the result was perfected.

From this labour of love emerged a sophisticated and elegant “chypre.”

Tarantella, a rare fragrance with a complex aura and memorable sillage.

Tarantella … it is very good indeed, solid, confident and interesting … very well put together with no breaks and a rich drydown that is faithful to the structure. Would get a solid 4 stars in a new edition of the guide.

Luca Turin, author, “Perfumes the Guide”

True Chypre Perfume (Vrai Chypre).

http://thevintageperfumevault.blogspot.com
by Amelia
"My favorite things change frequently but almost all are vintage; I just love old stuff."

Chypre is a formula built around earthy patchouli and loamy, smooth oakmoss plus labdanum. Labdanum is a richly fragrant lichen-like substance that was first combed from the hair of goats who picked it up grazing on the Mediterranean rock-rose shrub. The patchouli is refined and sublime without any of the spikey, sinus penetrating fumes. This base is rounded out by the classic harmony of citrus against a floral. The rose begins dusty pale; the bergamot was shy at first but it bloomed thanks to a muggy evening. The leather has a savory/creamy tang similar to goat's milk and under it all is a surprisingly familiar musky finish. I just wish I could share it with a wider audience.

History of labdanum from Cistus Creticus - Chypre Perfume. (Part 4)

The collection of genuine labdanum with the traditional way becomes only from the plant Cistus Creticus. Cistus Creticus exists in Eastern Medideranen.The collection labdanum with the traditional way depends:

1. from the plant (only from Cistus Creticus).

2. from the ground.

3. from the climate. The climate is altered with the years so that are altered also the regions from where it is collected labdanum.

I will present all regions where they were collected the laudanum as well as the historical reports.

Part 4: Northen Crete (only place ).

Time: today.

Historical reports:

Pierre Belon(1517-1564).

Pierre Belon was a French naturalist.

Francesco Morosini (1618 – 1694)

Francesco Morosini was the Doge of Venice from 1688 to 1694, at the height of the Great Turkish War. He was a member of famous noble Venetian family by the same name which produced several Doge's and generals.

Joseph Pitton de Tournefort (1656 - 1708)

Joseph Pitton de Tournefort was a French botanist, notable as the first to make a clear definition of the concept of genus for plants.

History of labdanum from Cistus Creticus - Chypre Perfume (Part 3)

The collection of genuine labdanum with the traditional way becomes only from the plant Cistus Creticus. Cistus Creticus exists in Eastern Medideranen.
The collection labdanum with the traditional way depends:

1. from the plant (only from Cistus Creticus).
2. from the ground.
3. from the climate. The climate is altered with the years so that are altered also the regions from where it is collected labdanum.

I will present all regions where they were collected the laudanum as well as the historical reports.

Part 3: Cyprus (Chypre in France).

Time: little before the genesis of Christ - up to the 18 century.
Historical reports:
















1.Pedanios Dioskurides 1o AC.
















2.Gaius or Caius Plinius Secundus (23-73 BC), better known as Pliny the Elder, was an ancient author, naturalist or natural philosopher and naval and military commander of some importance who wrote Naturalis Historia.














3.Pietro della Valle (2 April 1586 – 21 April 1652) was an Italian traveler in Asia.


Likely parts in Cyprus where producted the laudanum with the traditional way:

1.Leukara.

2.Tilliria.


In Cyprus sprouts only Cistus Creticus.

perfume of Cyprus (Chypre) was identified with that of laudanum

History.
The Chypre (pronounced SHEEP-ruh) family of perfumes takes its name from Cyprus, which is Chypre in French. The island itself is now thought to have been the home of one of the first major perfumeries in the Western world dating back to 2000 BC.

Discovered on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus in 2003, the perfumes date back more than 4,000 years, said excavation leader Maria Rosaria Belgiorno of the National Research Council in Rome.

Remnants of the perfumes were found inside an ancient 3,230-square-foot (300-square-meter) factory that was part of a larger industrial complex at Pyrgos.


The buildings were destroyed during an earthquake in 1850 B.C., but perfume bottles, mixing jugs, and stills were preserved under the collapsed walls.

It is likely that even after the destruction of this factory that much of the knowledge of perfumery was retained amongst the people dwelling there as the island was a haven of naturally occurring aromatic plants. Cistus(from which labdanum comes), Pistacia lentiscus (from which Mastic is derived), Laurus nobilis, mint, oregano, sage, thyme, lavender and many other fragrant species were found growing there in their natural state.


Prior to the Crusades, their was considerable trade between Cyprus, Italy, Turkey, Greece, Egypt and Persian countries and as aromatics in the form of unguents, incense, etc were considered highly desirable items of commerce, it is likely that Cyprus had special creations that were valued by its neighbors.


There was at the time of the Roman Empire a perfume that bore the name of Chypre which was composed of labdanum, Turkish storax and calamus. The production of this perfume continued in Italy through the Middle Ages with a variety of natural aromatics used.

Soon after Richard the 1st(Richard the Lion Hearted) took the title of the King of Cyprus in 1191, a Eau de Chypre perfume appeared in France which was said to consist of of extracts various gums, resins and spices in a rosewater base. In 17th and 18th century France a new form of Chypre appeared in the form of a incense know as 'oyselets de chypre. The various gums, resins (labdanum), herbs and spices were ground into a powder and mixed with gum tragacanth and fashioned into the form of birds which were then burned as we burn incense today. Oakmoss at this time was added to the basic formula which are key ingredients in the modern forms of Chypre.


During the ensuing years up till 1917 when Francois Coty introduced his famous Chypre perfume, many perfumers worked the themes of labdanum, bergamot and oakmoss into their compositions but it was not until his classic creation came on the market that the word "Chypre" became associated with a family of perfumes that displayed, at their heart, a rich , warm, earthy, mossy, resinous, green bouquet. Coty also drew upon various synthetic chemicals to "enhance" the central Chypre theme.

Following the introduction of his perfume many famous fragrance houses introduced their own unique variations of Chypre.

With the passage of time more and more synthetic ingredients were substituted for naturals which has been the standard pattern in the commerical perfume field. Many modern chypres contain very little if any of the core accord of labdanum, bergamot, and oakmoss or any of the other natural absolutes and essential oils which originally were part of a fine chypre composition.

Each family of perfumes (oriental, chypre, fougere, etc) has its own unique core aromatic characteristics which help set it apart from others. Within that central theme there is ample room for creative work. On the tree of the Chypre family one finds a number of main branches, i.e. Chypre-Floral, Chypre-Fresh, Chypre-Leather etc so even though one is working out of a particular aromatic theme base which in Chypre generally centers around bergamot, labdanum and oakmoss(some perfumers include patchouli, vetiver, amber, angelica and orris root in the core essences) one can develop their own "signature" perfume which will be unique and special. In this newsletter we will explore the first accord of a Chypre perfume.

The following natural Chypre accord built around Bergamot, Labdanum and Oakmoss should serve as a good beginning formula for those who wish to create a lovely perfume.

The history of perfume began in East Mediterranean Sea

The history of perfume began in antiquity. The word perfume used today to describe scented mixtures, derives from the Latin "per fumus", meaning through smoke. Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Egypt but was developed and further refined by the Romans and the Arabs. Although perfume and perfumery also existed in East Asia, much of its fragrances are incense based. The basic ingredients and methods of making perfumes are described by Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia.

East Mediterranean Sea

1.Ancient Egypt


Perfume was at the centre of aesthetics and therapeutics for both men and women in Ancient Egypt. Although the techniques used are mostly unrecorded, historians look to the literature of Greek and Roman writers and relief paintings and artefacts to determine the production, fashions and uses of perfume in this fascinating era.

1.Mesopotamia

The world's first recorded chemist is a person named lafaunda , a perfume maker who was mentioned in a Cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia.

1.Cyprus(Chypre)


To date, the oldest perfumery was discovered on the island of Cyprus.[Excavations in 2004-5 under the initiative of an Italian archaeological team unearthed evidence of an enormous factory that existed 4,000 years ago during the Bronze Age. This covered an estimated surface area of over 4,000m² indicating that perfume manufacturing was on an industrial scale. The news of this discovery was reported extensively through the world press and many artifacts are already on display in Rome.

Biblical

The Bible describes a sacred perfume (Exodus 30:22-33) consisting of liquid myrrh, fragrant cinnamon, fragrant cane, and cassia. Its use was forbidden, except by the priests. The woman wore perfume to present their beauty.

2.Ancient Greek and 3.Roman

Roman road is not very different from ancient. The Romans had copied most Greeks technology manufacturing aromas, and some traditions : perfumes has been actively involved in religious and burial rites, the daily hygiene procedures. But, of course, the Romans made in the art of perfumery and a contribution.
As in ancient Greece, Rome incense received from tree resin, and then mixed with oils, which caused the body or okurivali their premises.
In ancient Rome smells weight attached force. One smells curing headaches, insomnia others, the third-anxiety nerves ... In fact, it then emerged aroma, which became so popular among modern people. Interestingly, in ancient Rome profession Perfumer was similar to the career doctor, as well as the manufacture of fragrances was closely linked to the medicine.

4.Islamic

Islamic cultures contributed significantly in the development of Western perfumery in both perfecting the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introducing new, raw ingredients. Both of the raw ingredients and distillation technology significantly influenced Western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.


As traders, Islamic cultures such as the Arabs and Persians had wider access to different spices, herbals, and other fragrance material. In addition to trading them, many of these exotic materials were cultivated by the Muslims such that they can be successfully grown outside of their native climates. Two examples of this include jasmine, which is native to South and Southeast Asia, and various citrus, which are native to East Asia. Both of these ingredients are still highly important in modern perfumery.

In Islamic culture, perfume usage has been documented as far back as the 6th century and its usage is considered a religious duty. Muhammad said:
“ The taking of a bath on Friday is compulsory for every male Muslim who has attained the age of puberty and (also) the cleaning of his teeth with Miswaak (type of twig used as a toothbrush), and the using of perfume if it is available. (Recorded in Sahih Bukhari). ”

Such rituals gave incentives to scholars to search and develop a cheaper way to produce incenses and in mass production. Thanks to the hard work of two talented Arabian chemists: Jabir ibn Hayyan (Geber, born 722, Iraq), and Al-Kindi (Alkindus, born 801, Iraq) who established the perfume industry. Jabir developed many techniques, including distillation, evaporation and filtration, which enabled the collection of the odour of plants into a vapour that could be collected in the form of water or oil.

Al-Kindi, however, was the real founder of perfume industry as he carried out extensive research and experiments in combining various plants and other sources to produce a variety of scent products. He elaborated a vast number of ‘recipes’ for a wide range of perfumes, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. His work in the laboratory is reported by a witness who said:
“ I received the following description, or recipe, from Abu Yusuf Ya'qub b. Ishaq al-Kindi, and I saw him making it and giving it an addition in my presence. ”

The writer goes on in the same section to speak of the preparation of a perfume called ghaliya, which contained musk, amber and other ingredients; too long to quote here, but which reveals a long list of technical names of drugs and apparatus. Al-Kindi also wrote in the 9th century a book on perfumes which he named ‘Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations’. It contained more than hundred recipes for fragrant oils, salves, aromatic waters and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. The book also described one hundred and seven methods and recipes for perfume-making, and even the perfume making equipment, like the alembic, still bears its Arabic name.

The Persian Muslim doctor and chemist Avicenna (also known as Ibn Sina) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation, the procedure most commonly used today. He first experimented with the rose. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes were mixtures of oil and crushed herbs, or petals which made a strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular. Both of the raw ingredients and distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.

Crusaders


Eggs and floral perfumes were brought to Europe in the 11th and 12th centuries from Arabia, through trade with the Islamic world and with the returning Crusaders. Those who traded for these were most often also involved in trade for spices and dyestuffs. There are records of the Pepperers Guild of London, going back to 1179; which show them trading with Muslims in spices, perfume ingredients and dyes.

5.Western

Hungary

Knowledge of something perfumery came to Europe as early as the 14th century due partially to Arabic influences and knowledge. But it was the Hungarians who ultimately introduced the first modern perfume. The first modern perfume, made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution, was made in 1370 at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary and was known throughout Europe as Hungary Water. The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century, Italian refinements were taken to France by Catherine de' Medici's personal perfumer, Rene le Florentin. His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulas could be stolen en route.

France

France quickly became the European center of perfume and cosmetic manufacture. Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France. During the Renaissance period, perfumes were used primarily by royalty and the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from the sanitary practices of the day. Partly due to this patronage, the western perfumery industry was created. Perfume enjoyed huge success during the 17th century. Perfumed gloves became popular in France and in 1656, the guild of glove and perfume-makers was established. Perfumers were also known to create poisons; for instance, a French duchess was murdered when a perfume/poison was rubbed into her gloves and was slowly absorbed into her skin.

Perfume came into its own when Louis XV came to the throne in the 18th century. His court was called "le cour parfumee" (the perfumed court). Madame de Pompadour ordered generous supplies of perfume, and King Louis demanded a different fragrance for his apartment everyday. The court of Louis XIV was even named due to the scents which were applied daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture. Perfume substituted for soap and water. The use of perfume in France grew steadily. By the 18th century, aromatic plants were being grown in the Grasse region of France to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France remains the centre of the European perfume design and trade.


After Napoleon came to power, exorbitant expenditures for perfume continued. Two quarts of violet cologne were delivered to him each week, and he is said to have used sixty bottles of double extract of jasmine every month. Josephine had stronger perfume preferences. She was partial to musk, and she used so much that sixty years after her death the scent still lingered in her boudoir.


England

Perfume reached its peak in England during the reigns of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. All public places were scented during Queen Elizabeth's rule, since she could not tolerate bad smells. It was said that the sharpness of her nose was equal led only to the slyness of her tongue. Ladies of the day took great pride in creating delightful fragrances and they displayed their skill in mixing scents.

All the world

19th century

As with industry and the arts, perfume was to undergo profound change in the 19th century. Changing tastes and the development of modern chemistry laid the foundations of perfumery as we know it today. Alchemy gave way to chemistry and new fragrances were created. The industrial revolution had in no way diminished the taste for perfume, there was even a fragrance called "Parfum à la Guillotine". Under the post-revolutionary government, people once again dared to express a penchant for luxury goods, including perfume. A profusion of vanity boxes containing perfumes appeared in the 19th century.

America

In early America, the first scents were colognes and scented water. Florida water, an uncomplicated mixture of eau de cologne with a dash of oil of cloves, cassia, and lemongrass, was popular.

Une histoire de Chypre (a creation for Aedes de Venustas) by Molinard

Created: 2008

For: Women

type: Chypre - Floral

availability: US only







Story
In September of 2006 Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner, co-owners of Aedes de Venustas, had lunch with Molinard’s Dominique Camilli. Minutes melted into hours and at the end of the meal, the three agreed to work together on a fragrance. A trip to Grasse shortly followed and Une Histoire de Chypre was born. The fragrance was fashioned from an original Molinard chypre formula dating back to the twenties. This exclusive ‘vintage’ creation is only available in Aedes’ store in NYC and on : aedes.com
Description
The scent opens with refreshing notes of citrus, neroli and galbanum. The floral heart mingles rose, jasmine and iris. The base mixes patchouli, oak moss, musk and amber.

top notes:
Bergamot, Mandarin, Neroli, Galbanum.


heart note:
Jasmine, Bulgarian Rose, Iris.


base note:
Patchouli, Oakmoss, Musks, Amber

Natures Gift: Chypre

Chypre (french for Cypress) perfumes are one of the the classic fragrance families.

(Cistus Creticus :Unique Cistus that it charges in Cyprus "Chypre" and gives the laudanum.)

The authorities vary on giving guides to pronouciation. "Sheeprah" is close, but not exact. (I want to say "CHEYE-pruh"...definitely not correct!)















Chypres originated in the Roman Empire as a blend of mossy and animalic raw materials and botanicals. Remnants of Chypre type aromatics have been found in archeological finds. The Romans once produced a perfume in Cyprus that contained storax , labdanum and calamus. It was dense and almost oriental in feeling and its use continued through the Middle ages, with oakmoss as its base.

(labdanum from Cistus Creticus) - (oakamoss)

On the Island of Cypress, scents were made in the 12th century, using Labdanum Resin and other local aromatics from flowers and herbs.

Perfumery guides from the 18th century give formulas for Chypre blends containing Oakmoss, Civet, Ambergris and Musk, as well as various resins and plants, including Rose and Orange Blossom. In the 18th Century Chypre accords were described as mossy-leather blends.

François Coty reintroduced the name Chypre in the twentieth century (1917), we are told in attempt to reproduce the aromas found in the Island of Cypress.

Classic Chypre formulas are based on four single notes: Bergamot (other citrus oils may be substituted, but Bergamot is the Classic;) Labdanum, Oakmoss, and (usually!) Patchouli. These form the basic structure... with infinite possibilities and variations.
Modern Chypres generally consist of oakmoss , patchouli , labdanum, angelica or clary sage , with the addition of floral middle notes such as rose-jasmin and a bright, fresh, lightly sweet top note of bergamot or even lemon.

The term is usually reserved for blends featuring bergamot in the top notes and oakmoss and amber notes, often with patchouli as well--in the base. This of course leaves the middle wide open... giving room for various categories of Chypres:

Floral Chypres: Rose,Jasmine,Neroli or Orange Blossom, Lavender, Champa, Ylangylang, etc.

Animalic Chypres: Angelica Root, Black Currant, Calamus,Valerian

Fresh Chypres: More Citrus - Any citrus oil, Litsea cubeba, Petitgrain, Melissa, Yuzu Absolute, Lemon Verbena oil or absolute

Green/Herbal Chypres: (Carven's Ma Griffe was the first commercial "Green Chypre and a beloved memory of my teen years.) Geranium, Basil, Tarragon, Helichrysum, Chamomiles, bay laurel, Davana, Hyssop, Sage or Clary Sage

Leather Chypres: Choya Loban, Tobacco Absolute, Cade, Birch tar, Tea Absolute, Angelica

Coniferous Chypres: Cedar Leaf, Pine Needle, Fir balsam Abs and oil, Silver fir, Scotch pine, Cypress absolute and oil - any conifer, either absolute or oil, or, most interesting, the pair.
Woody Chypres: Himalayan or Atlas Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Coriander, Agarwood oil or co2, Vetiver, Rosewood, Araucaria, Guaicwood, carrot seed

For more information please refer to Victoria's BoisdeJasmin Blog. or the Perfume Shrine Blog.

Perfume Shrine: Kypre by Lancome: fragrance review & history

Perfume Shrine: Kypre by Lancome: fragrance review & history